Surf envy (2012 Testra Drug Aware Pro Margaret River)

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It’s that time of year again when I remember back to weekends spent body surfing, and ponder what might have been had I … had sun-friendly olive skin, more obedient hair, a modicum of cool, an ounce of balance and something other than the occasional go on a friends squeaky white foam surfboard. As always the Telstra Drug Aware Pro has me pondering life lived on the waves, it looks so idyllically stress free.


Steph Gilmore © The Ponder Room


With no shortage of waves today looked even easier, and yet defending champ Courtney Conlogue only just made it through at the last minute with a score of 9.47, her competitor scored 9.37. Sofia Mulanovich and Kirby Wright also made it through, and four times world champ Stephanie Gilmore got the HIF Wave of the Day.

Today I also learnt …



Steph Gilmore © The Ponder Room



… that some competitors train by holding their breath for five minutes, so they can stay under for longer without getting scared, hmmm.

Added to that the judges were looking for speed, power, flow and innovation! All that achieved in a split second, while hoping that nature dishes up the perfect wave just as you’re ready to take off, and that you don’t ‘interfere’ with any competitors on the way in.

Oh and if you’re Bethany Hamilton you achieve all this with only one arm … true inspiration!



Bethany Hamilton © The Ponder Room



Clearly good skin, great hair, balance, a board and ubber cool are just the beginning. 

Forget innovation, I’d spend all my time pondering how to stand up without my bathers bottom taking off to places unknown. How do they do that … the competitors that is …not the bather bottoms, I know all too well how they do it? Ultmately I think it’s best if I stick to the shore.
© The Ponder Room


Word is that the waves will be huge tomorrow, but not so good on Sunday, which means the comp may end on Saturday. So if you’re planning to head to Margaret River make sure you aim for Saturday not Sunday.

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